Trailer Build - Week Ten - December 18, 2016

 I got the front curved rib frame assembled this week and checked the fit which was good.  I took the headboard shelves out so I could see how things were looking with the rib frame and side panel curves which fit up nicely.  I thought leaning the frame back a little bit would provide an opportunity to try and slide the interior, 1/8 inch, plywood into position and just fold the frame up into place with the skin pressing against the ribs.  I kept the clamps securely fastened at the base of the frame and rotated the top out about 2 inches.  Even though the 1/8 inch plywood is very flexible, it still wouldn't conform to a nine inch radius at the base of the panel very easily.

Front Frame Clamped into Position

Rib Frame Tipped Back to Receive 1/8 inch Interior Skin

 

Frame Tipped Back Far Enough to Slide Top Shelf Into Mortise Slot

Forcing the Frame Into Position to Curve the Plywood 

As you can see in the photos below, the plywood skin does not conform to the radius very easily.  I tried forcing the frame up to see if the plywood would take the bend, but it just caused the frame to slip down in the clamps.

Skin not Conforming to Rib Radius

Another Angle of the Gap

Approximately 2 inch gap in the curve

I placed some soaked towels in the compartment to soften the wood

I let the soaked towels sit on the curve for a couple days to see if it would ultimately soften the plywood enough be able to make the bend, but it didn't work,  I resorted to taking the frame off and apply the skin with clamps and 2x4's on the garage floor.

Since the interior skin in the front compartment is for storage, cosmetics are not that important, so I got the initial curve started with the clamps and stapled the leading edge to the frame.  I did a progressive gluing of the skin to the frame, then continued to add clamps along the length as I applied more glue.

Initial clamp and staples on leading edge

Another Angle of Initial Clamping - Dark Area is The Moisture from The Towels Place 2 days prior

Clamps would occasionally slide off  the curved ribs 

Top View  - I used some of the plywood spars I made to help brace the plywood.

Clamping 2x4's on edge help hold the skin down onto frame where clamps can't reach.  Can never have enough clamps!

 The physical temperature in Minneapolis this morning was  -23 degrees so without my heated garage (which I keep at 50 degrees) this project wouldn't be done for a while.

With most of my clamps being tied up with the front rib frame skinning, I continued with some of the cabinet work.  I received some door hardware and the balance of the Blum drawer slides this week which I order from AH Turf.  I needed to have all things dry assembled with the slides in place to make sure the galley was ready for assembly before I completely dismantled it to install the water storage tank and place the Formica on the counter top.  I did place the Formica on several shelves for the dry assembly.

Driver Side Galley Cabinets - No Face Frames or Drawer Fronts

Passenger Side Cabinets

Full Galley with 22 Gallon Water Tank Set into Place

Layout for Sink Location and Drop-in Cutting Board

Hardware Installed for Galley Access Hatch Including Seal

To install the Formica counter top and install the back rib frame and water tank, I pulled all the cabinets out to give me plenty of access to the utility compartment.  Once the ribs and skin are installed, I need to build approximately a 2 inch high floor to raise the water tank up so it fits within the curve of the back ribs.  I also need to receive the sink I purchased so I can cut out the rough opening before installing the Formica so I can easily route out the Formica with a laminate trimmer.

All Components Removed for Galley

Back Rib Frame Fitted Up

Skin for Back Rib Frame - Softening Curve Area with Wet Towels

Storage Access Hatch at Headboard, Finger Hole to Open Lid

While the front ribs were off the trailer, I decided to install the front battery compartment frame while the access was still good.  The front battery box will be 3'-6" wide x 2 ft tall x 2 ft deep.  More than what is needed for batteries, but the electrical inverter, breakers, shore power connection, etc will be housed here, so some extra room will be nice.

Profile of Battery Box

Battery Box Base Frame

Check Frame for Clearance with Tongue Jack

Plywood Base Set in Place and view of Finger Holes for Headboard Storage Compartment

With the cooler temperatures, I left the clamps in place on the front rib skin to make sure it is dry before removing the clamps.  Hopefully all is good when I take the clamps off after work tomorrow, then I can move on to the rear.