Over the course of Week 8, I worked on cutting out rib pieces from the templates I made the previous week, finishing most if the curved pieces needed for the project. I got to thinking, I never really designed the front storage compartment which will house the batteries and provide some storage for camping equipment. Not sure what I want to do here, but what I laid out here for the battery compartment is a mirror image of the back hatch curve. A lot of work to do before I really need to make a decision.
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| Battery Compartment Concept |
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So before I got into assembly of the interior walls and installing the passenger side wall of the trailer, I took care of a couple little items like cutting out the galley pass-thru port and cutting all the cross-wall panels for a dry fit-up before going to glue and screw.
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| Pass-thru Cutout Opening into Galley |
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| Pass-thru Opening (Different View) |
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| Bottom Shelf for Cabin Area Cabinets |
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| Front Storage Area Divided by Headboard |
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| Headboard Dry Fit-up |
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| Bulkhead for Water Storage Tank under Galley Area |
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| Bulkhead for Water Storage Tank Dry Fit-up |
The storage space in the front of the trailer and this area in the rear for my water tank prove to be difficult for access to ether use the space or provide access for maintenance. I ordered some 4 ft. long piano hinges which should be here next week to I can close these areas off; only after I install the 22 gallon water tank in the rear.
Before I set the passenger side panel, I laid down butyl rubber onto the frame to seal off the bottom of the side panel. This was a pain, since the butyl rubber really sticks and trying to move the side panel around to fit the interior panels into the side panel mortise. Someone to help at this stage is recommended.
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| Butyl Rubber Tape Roll |
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| Butyl Rubber Laid on Steel Frame |
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| And like that......its done!!! All interior and exterior panels glued and screwed. |
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| View of the Galley with All Walls In-place |
I slid the galley counter surface into the mortise cuts to see how everything came together, a good fit. The space under the counter top is where the 12 x 12 x 32 inch (22 gallon) water tank will be housed. The opening I provide is 14" high by 48" long. The back panel opening is big enough to do maintenance and replace if necessary, but I will complete the tank installation with the galley counter out so I can brace and anchor the tank. I hope this tank never needs to come out in the future!!!!!
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| Tank Compartment with Access thru Cabin. |
I built a frame for the access hatch so I can close off the galley from the cabin. The bulkhead wall is made from 3/4" plywood and I made the hatch door from 1/2" plywood so I can put a 1/4" thick seal on the frame surround to seal the door.
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| Hatch Frame and Door |
I had been struggling with a decision on a stove concept to use in the trailer. I wanted something integral to the galley area and not to drag out and set on a separate table. I wanted a 3 burner stove so a griddle could be placed over 2 burners and still have a third for other things. This is what I purchased for $70 and is 29 inches long X 14-1/4 inches wide. My galley is 34 inches deep excluding the hatch framing which projects into the galley area 1-5/8". Things will be tight but I can make it work. I will be building a drawer to house the stove which will have a full 30 inch extension so the burners will be completely outside the galley area when in use. The 30 inch slides for the stove drawer can handle over 100 lbs fully extended.
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| 3 Burner Stove Unit to be Housed in a Cabinet Drawer. |
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| Profile of Stove Drawer Closed in Relation to Hatch Framing |
The x'ed out squares is the depth of the framing (or ribs) for the hatch. I should have approximately 3/4" clearance between the interior of the hatch and the top of the drawer face. Nice to see things start taking shape. I will continue with some cabinet work in the evenings this week and hopefully get some ribs installed next weekend.
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