Trailer Build - Week Twenty-Seven - June 11, 2017

I have been very uncertain about bending the trim around the tighter radius I designed into my trailer. The ones I have been modeling mine around have trim around what I would consider a tight radius,  but the gentleman I spoke with at Vintage Technologies said he has only bent the edge trim around a 24 inch radius for his builds.  I checked around some local places to see if they would roll bend the edge trim and no one was really very helpful, so I gave it a go on my own.

I first started out making a template out of some scrap plywood that was left over from building the main box.  I took a cutoff of from the two sheets of plywood I glued together for the galley area and cut a 9 inch radius to mimic the curves at the bottom front and rear of the trailer.  Knowing my curves were 90 degrees, I marked out the start and stop point and began to screw the molding to the template.  Slowly moving around the curve, I was surprised how easily the trim conformed to the curve with out buckling.  There were a couple little offsets, but nothing that couldn't get hammered back into place.

Form used from Scrap Plywood

Edge Molding Formed to 90 Degrees Around 9 Inch Radii

Verify the Length of Trim Remains Straight (8 ft Piece of Edge Trim)

View From Other Side

A Slight Deflection of the Edge Mid-bend

Trimming off End to 90 Degrees

Use Template Line to Assure Straight Cut

Finished Cut where Trim Meets the Frame

Fits the Curve Nicely

No Form Needed in 24 Inch Radius at Top of Trailer

Slowly Form Molding Around Curve and Install Screws Progressively

Front View of Edge Trim

This is as far as I need to take the edge trim for now until I get the aluminum skin on the front and top of the trailer.  I just needed to know I could form this without having someone specially bend the pieces.  This test piece will be removed and set aside so I can install the front and top aluminum skin.


To avoid waste when skinning the trailer front and top, I order two more 4 ft  x 10 ft sheets of 0.040 aluminum and had them sheered into 4 ft x 5 ft lengths to cover the 5 ft width of the trailer.  I will overlap and rivet the seams as I go.  I tried to pre-form the curve in the aluminum sheet by using a 12 inch diameter plastic pipe for the tight curves at the bottom front and rear to no avail.  There is no way one can hand form a curve to start at the very leading edge by hand on a 5 ft wide sheet of aluminum.  You might be able to do it with a lighter gauge sheet but the 0.040  is not that easy to form by hand.  I took 2 of the 4 x 5 sheets to a fabrication shop that did roll bending of metal sheet and had it pre-formed.  I should have ordered the protective plastic on the aluminum, as the rollers do a number on the finish.  So much for minimizing scratches!

2 Sheets Pre-Rolled with 9 Inch Radii

Front Piece with Holes Cut Out for Electrical to Battery Box

I was able to cut the holes with a core hole bit meant for wood.  I used a piece of plywood to backup the aluminum for drilling and the wood bit did just fine making it's way through the aluminum.

Another View of Front Sheet Prepped for Front

I did a test fitting of the front piece and the radius seemed a little tight and stood off the body by 1/2 inch.  I placed the thick edge of a shim between the frame and the sheet for initial installation so I have approximately 1/4 inch gap between the frame and aluminum sheet.  This gave me a little space for the sheet to move when rolling out the aluminum with the adhesive on it.

Shim Spacer to Offset the Aluminum Sheet - Passenger Side

Shim Spacer to Offset the Aluminum Sheet - Driver Side

Aluminum Sheet Installed

Aluminum Sheet Installed Front View

Aluminum Sheet Installed Side View

Another Side View

Up near the top where the star gazer window is, the aluminum sheet still wanted to pull away in the 24" radius area from the adhesive somewhat.  I routed some of the aluminum out at the window opening so I could get some clamp in to hold the sheet down while the the adhesive dried.  I also placed a couple screws in at the edge of the sheet where the overlap will occur to keep the sheet in place.

On to the back side sheet below the galley.  I trimmed approximately 18 inches off the length off the 4 ft sheet to make it easier to handle.  Again, I use a 80 grit sand paper to scuff up the surface to receive the adhesive and wiped the surface down with mineral spirits.

Sanded Interior Surface of Aluminum Sheet

Back Area Prepped

Adhesive Applied to Wood Skin

Adhesive Applied to Aluminum

Aluminum Sheet Installed

Aluminum Sheet Installed - View 2

Tail Lights Installed but not Wired

This is not a real important component of the build, but I needed an antenna for the stereo.  I just don't like drilling holes through the finished side of the trailer box.  I picked this location because the antenna mount needed to be adjacent to the stereo compartment inside the galley to kept the wires from being exposed.

Antenna Wiring through Sidewall

Another View

I also received the propane tank mount this week.  Cheapest I could find was $106.  It is a very sturdy assembly but still overpriced.  The 10 pound propane tank cost $50 and by the time I put fuel in it and get a hose with a regulator, I will have $200 hanging off the outside of the trailer.  At least it comes with a latch you can lock!

Propane Tank Mounted

Propane Tank and Antenna Mounted

I purchased a 48" long hurricane hinge for the battery box lid which I cut down to 42" to cover the width of the lid.  I mounted the lid to see how things were fitting up and it appears to be generally a good fit.  The curved lid has a slight bow in it which made it a little difficult to slide the hinge into the slot, but the lid and hinge functions properly.

Battery Box Lid Installed

Trim Strip Installed Over Screws

Gap at Edge for Seal

Now that this test fit-up is done for the battery box, I will remove the lid, install the aluminum skin, trim out the edges and install the seal.  I will complete this after I finish the top of the trailer which will have enough aluminum cutoffs that I will use to cover the lid and front of the box.