It took only a few days for the 40 pound lifters to arrive and the photo below is what you get for dropping 20 pounds. Looks like I will be sticking with the 60's.
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| 40 Pound Lifters don't Quite Cut-it! |
My buddy finally got my cutting board back to me after he ran it through his fathers plainer. I needed to get the recessed handle installed which takes some time with a chisel and the router. Its not pretty with the handle pull out, but it fits well when installed.
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| Recess for Cutting Board Handle |
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| Pull Sits Nicely in Recess |
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| Another View |
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| Cutting Board Installed in Galley |
With the hatch having been fitted with the lifters and lifter brackets, I marked their location on the side of the ribs, sanded the interior of the ribs with the belt sander to get all the joints smooth and ready to go for the last interior skin piece.
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| Hatch Ready for Interior Skin |
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| I sprayed the interior skins with a garden hose intermittently for 1 hour to try and soften the wood. |
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| All Glued Up |
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| Profile of Gluing - I could not get the skin to seat in the curve, so I screwed it down through plywood strips |
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| View from Above |
I had to get the interior skin tight to the ribs in the curve in order to not have a conflict with the stove drawer, which I only have about 3/8 inch clearance between the hatch and drawer face. I installed some screws through a plywood strip along the length of the strip in the curve; resulting in holes in the finish surface. I did strategically place the strip where my LED light strips will be mounted, so most of the holes will be covered.
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| Some of the Screw Holes thru the Interior Skin - In Curve |
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| Flooding the Joints with Glue |
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| Flooded Joints |
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| Hatch Fit-up with Interior Skin |
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| Fit-up at Galley Counter top |
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| Another View |
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| View Looking Downward |
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| Hatch Clearance at Trailer Sidewall - Passenger Side |
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| Hatch Clearance at Trailer Sidewall - Driver Side |
I was very happy with the fit of the hatch, clearance on both sides and the alignment with the galley counter top. I took the hatch off so I could do some sanding of the exterior ribs when I get ready to skin the exterior of the hatch, and I need to sand and finish the interior skin.
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| Sanded the Back Ribs and Bracing Flush with Belt Sander |
I need to get the hatch wiring over to the galley light as they are interconnected. I have seen many trailers with a jumper hard wired over to the hatch, but no way to disconnect the jumper. I was looking at a variety of different options but nothing really seemed to fit the bill. The Galley lights are RGBW and require a five wire jumper to run all the different lighting sequences. I found this 5 pin waterproof connector on Amazon and purchased it for less than $2.50. It shipped from China and took 3 weeks, but it looks like it will do the job, along with letting me easily disconnect the wiring if I ever need to remove the hatch for any reason.
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| 5 Pin Waterproof Connector |
Amazon never had a dimension on the overall length of the assembly but it appears to be long enough, but not a lot of spare wire to play with.
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