Trailer Build - Fender Modification & Polish

In order to not damage the tires, I needed to raise the fenders from my original layout.  I added 4 inches to the overall height by adding rectangular tubing to the support brackets that are mounted to the trailer frame.  I did a little drawing to make sure this would be the look I wanted before wasting my time on the modification.

Original Fender Design

Fender in Relation to Tire After Build with Dead Load

Proposed Modification

 Since I fabricated the fender in place on the chassis and was relatively certain I had heat stresses locked into the fender, I decided to brace the fenders with some angle iron prior to cutting the fender free from the support brackets.

Fender Pre-surgery

Fender Braced for Removal

Fender Cut Free from Supports

Fender Set Aside for Re-installation Later

I needed a 4 inch extension to get the proper spacing and look between the fender and tire.  They don't make 1 x 4 rectangular tubing so I had to male my own.

Fabricated 4" Extension from 1 x 3 and 1 x 1 Tubing

I welded and ground the longitudinal seams and boxed in the ends before installing on the existing fender supports.

Ground Seams and Boxed-in Ends

Extension Added to Front Support

Extension Added to Rear Support

I was able to get some solid welds on the fender extensions, so I ground them flush and filled the bug holes with Bondo to prepare the surface for more bed liner coating.

Bondo of Bug Holes from Welding - Passenger Side.

Bondo of Bug Holes from Welding - Driver Side Side

Tire installed to verify correct clearance was achieved under dead load of trailer.  Now just touch-up the bed-liner coating on the fenders and the fix is done.

Tire Clearance under Dead Load

The aluminum sheet I used was mill finish, so it had no protection to the exposed surface other than a light coating of oil.  I had a lot of oxidization spots all over the trailer where sweat would drip on the aluminum or a hand print would appear on the aluminum siding through the process of constructing and trimming out the edges.  I did not want to spend massive hours trying to clean the oxidization spot off the exterior; I even considering painting the trailer to get rid of the stains across the entire trailer as the spots really detracted from the overall appearance.

I found this product from a company called California Custom that swore by their product.  I viewed a couple videos and it appeared to work really well, so I gave it a try.

California Custom Deoxidizer and Aluminum Polish

The white marks on the lid are drops of sweat that dried on the aluminum that wont come off with general wiping.

Stains on Aluminum Sheeting

Deoxidizer on Left Half of Battery Box Lid

Batter Box Lid after Deoxidizer and Purple Polish

Nice Shine for Only 10 Minutes of Work

Deoxidizer Lifts the Stains

Battery Box Complete

Shine is Nice compared to the Rest of the Trailer

Each bottle cost $18 and I was able to clean and polish my entire trailer  in approximately 7 hours by myself with no power tools.  The stuff works as claimed!

As soon as I cleanup my spreadsheet, I will post my total cost of the build  along with whatever links I have to websites and vendors I used to purchase my materials.  In addition, I will update on the total weight and tongue weight of the trailer once I can get this across a scale.

I will say after our first trip, the things trails exceptionally well.  No problem hitting 80 MPH down the freeway and the trailer suspension is the smoothest ride I have ever experience.